There are some classic European, orange-flavoured foods that to many people exemplify the sunshine and flavour of the northern mediterranean climate and landscape. Often it’s the flavour of a certain type of citrus fruit we generally know as “Bitter Orange” that has a distinctive fresh but not cloyingly sweet orange aroma and flavour, compared to regular Navel or Valencia oranges.
In cooking there are classic recipes like Crêpes Suzette, Grand Marnier Soufflé (one of my favourites, a great version is served at La Couple in Paris) and the almost forgotten Canard (Duck) à l’Orange, that use a type of spirit such as Grand Marnier, or Orange Curacao.
The aroma is often used in exclusive fragrances, and sometimes in medicine to counteract indigestion, dizziness, or act as an antifungal treatment on the skin. But in most British-influenced countries it’s known as the flavour of a classic orange preserve known as Marmalade.
Many cooks today regard the bitter orange as a Mediterranean species, commonly referring to it as the ‘Seville Orange.’ This name can sometimes perplex Spaniards, as the region’s bitter orange isn’t as renowned locally. In reality, the bitter orange is believed to be an East Asian citrus species that was introduced to the Mediterranean via ancient trade routes. It likely arrived in Spain during the Arab occupation, which began in the 8th century, with records suggesting the bitter orange’s presence in Spain by the 10th century.
So let’s go back further, and look at the bitter orange in Asia prior to that time. The bitter orange is actually thought to be an ancient naturally-occurring hybrid due to cross pollination (by insects or animals). The earliest non-hybrid citrus varieties are thought to be the Citron, Pomelo, Mandarin, Kumquat, and Makrut (Kaffir) limes, with lesser-known non-hybrid citrus like the Mangshanyegan (similar to the bitter orange), Ichang Papedas (similar to a Yuzu), and the Biasong and Samuyao (possibly the parent of the Key Lime).
In Taiwan in 1926s a species of sour bitter orange was discovered by Japanese botanists who were studying the forests of Miaoli County. The fruit is known today as Nanzhuang Citrus Taiwanica or Nanzhuang Sour Orange (originally named “Nansho Daidai Sour Orange” by the Japanese colonialists). It’s thought to be an ancient hybrid of the Pomelo and Mandarin, with new DNA testing currently done to establish its origin and chemical composition.
Similar to the Seville Orange, the Nanzhuang Citrus Taiwanica has a slightly rough outer skin with deep reddish orange colour when ripe, and with a slight orange scent to the uncut peel. Inside the peel is thick and very firm, slicing cleanly. There are many large pips in the flesh that have a slightly gelatinous (pectin) coating around them. Surprisingly, the flavour of the juice isn’t especially sour when the fruit is ripe. I found I could taste traces of pomelo and mandarin in the juice, possibly even with a little lime in the background. I imagined the flavour would be at it’s strongest if the fruit was slightly underripe, picked in early December depending on the climate (the fruit I tasted was from mid-January, straight from the tree).
Nanzhuang Citrus Taiwanica is considered at risk of extinction in its original Miaoli mountain forest habitat, though there are some examples around the world in gardens. But the importance of supporting the plant in it’s original habitat is that there will be characteristics that flourish only in that particular altitude and terrain.
Also, for the Saisiyat aboriginal people who share the forest with nature, Nanzhuang Citrus Taiwanica has a place in their customs and spirituality. Restoring and strengthening the growth of Nanzhuang Citrus Taiwanica also helps to heal the relationship, from the Saisiyat’s perspective, between the mountain spirits and the tribe, mending a kind of ecological-spiritual ‘loop’ that will protect the mountain and the region. Whether or not modern city people believe in these customs is a separate issue: in my view, respecting the spiritual ecology practiced by the Saisiyat can only be of benefit to Taiwan, and arguably other traditional communities around world through the message it promotes.
