Round-up: some little books on baking

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The best cookbooks aren’t necessarily massive tomes devoted to every fiddly detail. Some books get straight to the point and when space is at a minimum they don’t muck about. Here are a five little baking books that make short work of it.

 

Just Like Mother Used to Bake
A real pocket-sized volume, this book nonetheless packs in an impressive number of recipes, all with a real whiff of nostalgia. Divided into ‘Fruity Bakes’, ‘Indulgent Treats’, ‘Family Favourites’ and ‘Teatime’ sections, the only hard part in navigating ‘Just Like Mother Used to Bake’ is resisting the tempting photographs which accompany each recipe. Recipes themselves are simply laid out and a doddle to follow for anyone with even the most fleeting of baking experience. The additional prose is a nice touch, giving a little more background to each dish, and the final few pages are given over to that invaluable kitchen staple- basic pastry recipes. Well worth slipping into your pocket next time you’re in need of comfort of an edible kind.

Just Like Mother Used to Bake
Catherine Osbourne (ed.)
Published by Ryland Peters and Small
RRP £6.99

Quick Breads
Another slim volume from the reliably excellent Linda Collister, each recipe stylishly offset by Kate Whitaker’s photos. Divided into chapters for ease of use, you’ll probably find what you’re after- be it ‘Savoury Breads’, ‘Corn Breads’, ‘Breakfast Breads’ or ‘Small Breads’. Each recipe gives a concise paragraph elaborating on the recipe’s title- and with unusual breads like Pumpernickel and fig loaf, Watercress and rocket loaf and Sri Lankan coconut roti, who wouldn’t want to know more? Collister’s practical, authorative tone enables even baking novices to turn out breads as luscious as those in the pictures, whilst those with a bit more know-how should also be inspired.

Quick Breads
Linda Collister
Photographs by Kate Whitaker
Published by Ryland Peters and Small
RRP £8.99

Afternoon Tea
Yet another little treat for fans of the old institution that is afternoon tea, Susannah Blake brings together a clutch of recipes ideal for impressing your guests- not to mention delighting the tastebuds. Hints on making the perfect proper cuppa will be welcome, whilst the food side of the party is covered completely by ‘Sandwiches and Savouries’, ‘Scones and Teacakes’, ‘Fancies’ and a few bigger ‘Cakes’. Having a photo to accompany each well-thought recipe certainly helps with some of the more fiddly, dainty ‘canapé-type’ dishes- such as Dark chocolate, prune and Armagnac mousses- but the mouth-watering pictures come as a welcome diversion even for simpler preparations. Not many guests would turn down an invite to afternoon tea when it consisted of Baby rarebits with beetroot and orange relish, Orange and walnut scones, Praline and coffee éclairs, and a classic Victoria sponge- why not bake ‘em up and reinstate the ceremony?

Afternoon Tea
Susannah Blake
Photographs by Martin Brigdale
Published by Ryland Peters and Small
RRP £8.99

Tarts Sweet and Savoury
This book is a fantastic introduction to the world of all things tart-shaped. The comprehensive ‘Basics’ section kicks things off, equipping the home baker with all the essential knowledge regarding pastry equipment, techniques and core recipes and methods. It’s useful reference material for more experienced cooks, too. Martin Brigdale’s photos are well used throughout, great especially when illustrating some of the more complex stages. Elsewhere in the book, each recipe is presented alongside a picture of the finished dish- serving both to tempt and provide a reference point. Recipes are split 50:50 between ‘Savoury’ and ‘Sweet’ offerings, ranging from the most classic (Quiche Lorraine; Tarte au pommes) to the highly original (Sausage, sun-dried tomato and potato tart with golden onions; Jack’s rose petal tart). There’s something to suit most palates in this info-packed book.

Tarts Sweet and Savoury
Maxine Clark
Photographs by Martin Brigdale
Published by Ryland Peters and Small
RRP £9.99

Cupcake Heaven
A fluffy crumb, mile-high swirl of frosting and perhaps a scattering of silver balls or rainbow sprinkles- who can resist a well-made cupcake? Or even a poor one, for that matter. That won’t be a concern for users of this beautifully whimsical book, which abounds with colourful, delectable photographs of Susannah Blake’s pretty cupcakes. A bit of a frivolous buy and the lightest of reads, ‘Sex And The City’ types will no doubt adore turning out batches of Creamy coconut or Rocky road cupcakes- there’s even a few low-fat offerings. Chapters group recipes into ‘Simple’, ‘Celebration’, ‘Indulgent’, ‘Special Diet’, and ‘Kids’’- ensuring an abundance of choice for anyone with the slightest cake fetish. And, with bakeshop cakes coming in at over £2.50 a pop, you could do well to look upon this book as an investment!

Cupcake Heaven
Susannah Blake
Photographs by Martin Brigdale
Published by Ryland Peters and Small
RRP £12.99

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Children’s Cookbook

The Dorling Kindersley imprint now offers quite a selection of titles aimed at encouraging children into the kitchen as more than mere observers. This book is aimed squarely at beginners – of all the DK books, I felt it contained perhaps the most helpful introductory tips – and explains basic techniques like melting chocolate and boiling eggs. Many of the recipes acknowledge the benefit of a healthy diet, which is a great thing to get across to a child, given the daily pressure of advertising for confectionery and convenience foods. But surely, the best way to encourage children to eat well throughout their lives is to awaken their interest in home cooking – and this book makes an excellent starting point.

I liked the clean layout and clear step-by-step photos (typical of Dorling Kindersley), and given that cooking can have hidden hazards which little fingers might not be aware of, I appreciated the fact that any step which might be fraught – like using a kitchen knife or heating up oil – was marked with an exclamation mark inside a bright red triangle.

Although only about a third of the recipes are for baked goods and desserts, this book remains an excellent buy for those who want their kids to enjoy cooking with them. The ‘health’ emphasis extends to pages on individual food groups, not to mention a whole host of healthy breakfast recipes, including making your own crunchy oat and nut cereal. Many of the dishes are rich in vegetables and fibre, and the book is keen to stress the importance of a varied diet.

Despite this healthy eating theme, a few recipes (such as the vegetable tart) feature quite rich ingredients, yet make no suggestions about making a more balanced meal. I also wonder if dried yeast may be easier for young cooks to handle than the fresh yeast required by the recipe, not to mention easier to find in the shops.

However, criticisms of this book are few, and the ‘Children’s Cookbook’ is a great purchase if you want to involve your kids with cooking. The book asks ‘why not make it yourself?’- a refreshing approach in a sadly ‘pre-prepared’ world where fast food is considered a treat.

Children’s Cookbook
By Katharine Ibbs
Published by Dorling Kindersley, October 2004
128 pages; RRP £13.99
Target age group: 8-15

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